Petrified Forest

The Petrified forest is located about 40 km west of Khorixas. It cost us NAD 280 to enter. We also gave a small tip to the compulsory guide, and to the man in the car park.

We didn’t know really what to expect, but it was actually really interesting. Laying on/in the ground are what look like tree trunks, estimated to be around 260 million years old. The smaller rocks look like logs and firewood, but are hard as rocks. The trees didn’t grow here, no roots have been found. That’s why they think that, after the ice age, the trees drifted from Angola, and landed here after a flood.
Here we were also showed a plant native to the area, the weltwitschia. It only exists on the gravel plains in the northern Namib desert.
The welwitschas have only two long and leathery leaves, which grow from opposite sides of the cork-like stem. Over the years, the leaves are darkened in the sun and torn by the wind into tattered strips. Pores in the leaves trap moisture, and longer leaves actually water the plant’s own roots by channeling droplets onto the surrounding sand.
Weltwitchas have a slow growth rate, and it’s believed that the largest ones (leaves can measure up to 2 m across), may have been growing for up to 2000 years. Most midsized plants plants are less than 1000 years old. The plant’s don’t even flower until they have been growing for at least 20 years. In the last picture the male plant is on the left, and the female on the right.
We saw our first motorcycle today, driving into the Petrified Forest. Gosh, that must be hot and dirty! When we meet another car, on this road quite often, on the others hardly at all, the clouds of dust are so thick it’s like driving through a fog.

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Another Rollercoster-Road

(25 June)

Another rollercoaster road from Vingerklip to the main road towards Khorixas. Roughly 55 km. Deep inverted bumps where the rivers would flow during wet season. At this time they are completely dried out. There were warning signs, still a hidden double dip sent us flying. We landed on the road again with a big thump, the whole car shutting down. Luckily a switch off/restart of the engine was all it needed to go again. Needless to say, we were out in the middle of nowhere.

We did pass the occasional farm. It’s hard to imagine how they make a living. The land was all rocks. We saw a couple horses, and a fowl, a few cattle, and a herd or two of goats. I doubt anything could grow in this in-hospitable environment.
They eat many things made from corn flour, we have yet to see corn fields, though. It might just be the wrong time of year, but we haven’t really seen any fields at all where we have been.
Another fun thing on this road was a little dik-dik we saw. As we learned many years ago in Masai Mara, the dik-dik  are close relatives of the elephants, believe it or not.
I think we only met one car on this 45 minute drive.

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Eagle’s Nest

Since we are in the middle of nowhere, choices for dinner was limited. We did, however, have a choice between buffet in the restaurant in the main building, or in the Eagle’s Nest. In the Eagle’s Nest a braai would be served, an African BBQ.

To reach the restaurant we had to walk along a steep path, then climb the stairs to the top of the rock. Alex counted the steps on the way back: stairs 198, total number of steps 725 (give or take). The views made the climb worth while. We started our ‘climb’ at 17.30, dinner was served after the sun had set.

Food was superb, choices of Kudu steak, lamb, chicken, and springbok sausages. Potatoes, veggies, and garlic bread. Vanilla custard trifle and, cheese and crackers for dessert.

We descended in the dark, but there were short garden lights along the path.

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Vingerklip Hike

The Vingerklip is the geological leftover of a Ugab Terrace. The Rock Finger stands on a hill top and has a height of 929 m above sea level, the rock itself is 35 metres high.

We went in a hike, just over an hour round trip, up to the base of the rock. Since it was about 27 degrees, we waited until the late afternoon before heading off. From up there the views of the landscape were spectacular. We walked around the base of the rock before heading back.

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Vingerklip

Our lodge at Vingerklip is out in the middle of nowhere. No internet connection whatsoever. The area is the amazing Ugab-Valley, with its table mountains and plateaus. It is a beautiful landscape.

After a nice lunch we relaxed on our balcony. We had a view of one of the local waterholes. We saw zebras walking off when we first got there. Then came large birds, possibly guinea fowl. Followed by a large group of baboons. The next morning the birds came back, and just as we were leaving a pair of large Eland antelopes arrived for their morning drink.

It’s a fantastic lodge, two rooms share a small cottage, with entrances on opposite sides. Again we had a loft for Alex.

Food was great. Coffee, tea, and cake whenever we wished (you get what you pay for).

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Etosha to Vingerklip

(24 June)

This morning we only had a short trip to our next destination, less than two hours. The first part of the road, to Otujo, was a good quality sealed road. We then turned onto a rollercoaster, gravel road. We saw a mountain chain in the distance to the west, and south. Passed through deep riverbeds. During wet season it’s most likely not possible to drive here.

We passed some homes built from brick, or clay, others made from tarpaulin, or what looked like black garbage bags.

Warthogs, and a few herds of sheep and goats, were our animal sightings thus far. Before reaching Vingerklip (pronounced fingerklip) – Finger Rock, we also had to go through two closed gates. We’re lucky to have our own gate-boy.

Driving on the roads of loose sand or gravel is just like driving in snow.

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An Hour at Okakuejo Waterhole

(23 June)

When we arrived at the Okakuejo waterhole in the late afternoon, there was an elephant drinking, and also quite a few antelopes.

As the elephant had quenched his/her thirst, he/she wandered away slowly. Two giraffes came wandering slowly from the opposite side, stopping often, standing still, listening, and looking around. Atelope skipped and hooped to the waterhole to drink in small groups.

We were hoping the giraffes would drink, a few times they were almost by the water. They took their time, stopping, scouting around them. We saw zebras approached from the left, they came in a long row. They walked towards the waterhole in a semi-circle. The giraffes backed away a bit from the water, and let the zebras drink. After the zebras were finished they walked away, in a row, straight away from us. Our two giraffe friends kept listening, and looking around. Four oryx then approached from the direction where the zebras had headed off towards. A third giraffe approached from the right.

Clearly the different animals took turns drinking at the waterhole, all the while the giraffes were keeping watch to keep them safe.

After the oryx had skipped away, in the same direction they had come from, the giraffes finally walked all the way to the water’s edge.

Eventually they all three bent down to drink. A sight well worth the wait.

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Game-viewing in Etosha

This game-drive was done by our selves in our own vehicle. Animals in Etosha were, mostly, easily spotted.

Springbok antelopes and wildebeest didn’t come two-by-to, but by the hundreds. After the drive we enjoyed having springbok for dinner… We were so tired of them we hardly took any pictures – they were everywhere. Zebras were also plentiful.

There were also Kudu-antelope, black spotted jackal, and several ostriches. A funny looking animal with a shell like body that we haven’t been able to figure out what it was.

At one of the waterholes there was a lion couple, possibly cubs hiding in the tall grass accorder to other sightings.

We only saw three elephants, one in the far distance, and two close by.

There were many, many giraffes with their long necks. They are funny looking, but one of my favorites.

Some birds we were not able to identify.

Black rhinos are very difficult to spot, the reason being they eat grass. White rhinos eat leaves on the trees. They are not really black and white. The colonists misinterpreted the Afrikaans weijt (wide), for white. Hence the name. The white rhino has a wider snout than the black.

We saw two cars parked in the road, looking into the higher grass. They said there were to black rhinos there. With binoculars we were able to spot them, looking like two large rocks, only moving slightly. After finding them with the binoculars, they were also easily spotted without. Pretty cool!

Towards the end of our drive we saw vultures (can’t specify) waiting. Watching some more we saw a couple of black spotted jackals. They had slain a pray, that we were not able to see, and the vultures  were waiting there turn.

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Etosha National Park

(23 June)

We had breakfast at first light. A bit after 7 am we drove the 10-15 min to the Andersson Gate, our entry point for Etosha National Park. Gates open at sunrise, times changes everyday. Today the park was open 7.30 until 18.30. We were the seventh car in line, signed into the park at 7.35.

17 km after the entrance is Okakuejo. Here we had to stop and pay the entrance fee for the park, NAD 80/adult and NAD 10 for the car. Alex was free.

We then headed of on our self-drive in search of wildlife. The roads inside the National Park were of various conditions. Some quite good, others shook up our inner organs pretty good, even at very low speed.

Etosha covers more than 20.000 sq km, and is said to be one of the world’s great wildlife-viewing venues. The charm of Etosha lies in it’s ability to bring animals to you, when parked by a waterhole. The most important rule was to stay in the vehicle at all times, also at the waterholes.

This year the water supply is low, waterholes fairly small. Still, in each one, there were wildlife to be seen. It must be a very harsh environment for the animals, in this stoney desert.

We decided to stay inside the park the whole day, having lunch at Halili Camp. This enabled us to drive almost as far east as possible. We read in the log for recent sightings, that there were a greater chance of lions the further east we drove. That was true, we did spot a male lion in the tall grass at Okerfontein. It got up and walked away, as we moved slowly forward, we then spotted a lioness. According to the sightings log, it was supposedly a family. Maybe the cubs were hiding in the tall grass.

After our stop at Okakuejo waterhole, where we overstayed our planned departure time, with about 10 minutes, we set off towards Andersson Gate. The gate was closing at 18.30, we clocked out at 18.26.

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Etosha Pan

The vast Etosha Pan, an immense, flat, saline desert, is the essence of Etosha. Now, in the dry season, everything, from the elephants to the grasslands, seems cast in Etosha’s white, chalky dust. The pan is mostly dry, like now, but after a rain it will have a thin layer of water. It makes up a large part of the Etosha National Park.

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